Chasing Fire and Ice: An Icelandic Birthday Adventure - Our 2017 Trip

There are few places on Earth where nature feels so raw, powerful, and untouched as in Iceland. For my birthday, we embarked on a journey that would take us through dramatic volcanic landscapes, shimmering glaciers, steaming geothermal fields, and waterfalls that seemed to spill straight out of a dream. From landing with EasyJet to navigating the island in our rugged Jeep Renegade, this trip was the perfect blend of adventure, tranquility, and awe-inspiring moments.

Touchdown in Iceland

Our Icelandic adventure began with a flight from the UK aboard EasyJet. The journey was smooth and surprisingly comfortable, with views of Iceland's jagged coastline greeting us as we descended into Keflavik International Airport. Stepping off the plane, the crisp Arctic air immediately energized us, waking up every sense.

We picked up our rental, a sturdy Jeep Renegade—perfect for Iceland's ever-changing weather and terrain. With its heated seats and robust frame, it felt more like a trusty companion than just a car. Iceland's Ring Road and interior highlands beckoned, and with a loose itinerary in hand, we set off to explore this land of fire and ice.

The Golden Circle: A Journey Through Geology

Our first full day was devoted to the Golden Circle, one of Iceland's most celebrated tourist routes, and for good reason. It includes three main natural landmarks: Þingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, and the spectacular Gullfoss waterfall.

Þingvellir was our first stop, and it immediately left us speechless. Here, the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet, creating a rift valley where you can literally walk between two continents. The cliffs and ravines stretch dramatically across the landscape, evidence of centuries of geological activity. The park is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site with deep historical significance as the location of Iceland's first parliament, established over a thousand years ago.

Next, we headed to the Geysir geothermal area. The landscape was like something out of a science fiction film—steaming vents, bubbling mud pools, and mineral-rich earth glowing with vibrant colors. The air was thick with the scent of sulfur, a constant reminder of the geothermal energy pulsing beneath our feet. While the original Geysir (from which all geysers get their name) now erupts only occasionally, Strokkur steals the show. Every 6 to 10 minutes, this powerful geyser blasts a column of boiling water up to 30 meters into the sky. Watching it erupt was mesmerizing—the surface would bulge, quiver, and then suddenly explode, leaving behind a chorus of gasps and cheers from spectators.

Our final Golden Circle stop was Gullfoss. The waterfall is colossal, roaring with a force that you can feel in your chest. It plunges in two dramatic stages into a deep canyon, sending mist high into the air. Rainbows shimmered in the spray as we stood on the viewing platform, chilled to the bone but completely transfixed. No photo could do justice to the raw power of Gullfoss.

A Birthday on the Glacier

Andrew had a surprise planned for my birthday—something beyond my wildest dreams. We were headed to Langjökull, Iceland's second-largest glacier, for an ice tunnel tour and a snow truck expedition.

The journey there was part of the thrill. Our Renegade handled the snowy mountain passes with confidence, but it was the custom-built glacier truck that took us the final stretch. Massive wheels, roaring engine, and the ability to traverse pure ice made it feel like we were embarking on a polar expedition.

Once atop the glacier, we strapped on crampons and ventured into the man-made tunnel that wound deep into the heart of the ice. Inside, it was eerily silent and otherworldly. The ice walls glowed with shades of aquamarine and sapphire, and we could see bubbles trapped in time, some for hundreds of years. Our guide explained how glaciers form, move, and melt—a sobering reminder of the climate challenges our planet faces.

Celebrating a birthday deep inside a glacier felt profound. Time seemed to stop in that frozen cavern, and for a moment, all that mattered was the beauty surrounding us.

Blue Lagoon by Night

After the glacier, it was time to warm up. We booked a night visit to the famous Blue Lagoon, Iceland's premier geothermal spa located in a lava field near Grindavík.

At night, the lagoon takes on a mystical quality. Surrounded by darkness, the steaming milky-blue water glows eerily under the soft lighting. Floating beneath the stars while surrounded by black lava rocks, we felt like we were drifting in another world.

We treated ourselves to drinks from the in-water bar and applied the signature silica masks, which left our skin smooth and refreshed. It was pure bliss. Despite being a popular tourist spot, the nighttime slot made it feel private and intimate.

One thing we quickly noticed across Iceland, including in our hotel showers, was the unmistakable smell of sulfur. Thanks to the country’s reliance on geothermal energy, hot water comes directly from underground springs—which means it sometimes smells like rotten eggs. It took a day or two to get used to, but the environmental sustainability of it was impressive.

Black Beaches and the Town of Vík

Our journey continued south to the small coastal village of Vík, famous for its dramatic landscapes and unique beaches. The town itself was quiet and charming, nestled at the base of green cliffs with red-roofed homes and a cozy local bakery where we stocked up on pastries.

But the real draw was Reynisfjara beach, renowned for its black volcanic sands and towering basalt columns. The beach was windswept and wild, with powerful Atlantic waves crashing against sea stacks that loomed ominously offshore. These were the Reynisdrangar, which local legends say are trolls frozen into stone.

We spent hours exploring the basalt formations and photographing the surreal scenery. A word of caution to future visitors: the waves here are treacherous, known as "sneaker waves" that can catch people off-guard. We kept a safe distance, in awe of the raw energy of the ocean.

Behind the Falls: Seljalandsfoss

No trip along the southern coast is complete without stopping at Seljalandsfoss, one of Iceland's most iconic waterfalls. What makes this one special is the footpath that allows you to walk behind the waterfall, creating a 360-degree experience.

Despite the winter chill, we braved the slippery path and ducked behind the cascade. It was wet and cold but completely worth it. From behind the veil of water, we looked out at the snowy fields and mountains, feeling like we had stepped into a Norse legend.

Nearby, we also visited Gljúfrabúi, a lesser-known waterfall hidden within a cliffside cave. We waded through a narrow opening, and suddenly there it was—a pristine column of water descending into a moss-covered grotto. It was one of the most magical and unexpected finds of the trip.

Iceland's Price Tag

There’s no getting around it: Iceland is expensive. From food and drinks to tours and fuel, everything costs more than you might expect. A simple lunch could set you back £15-20, and dinners were often upwards of £50 for two. Fuel stations are few and far between, especially in rural areas, and prices reflect the isolation.

Still, we never felt like we were being gouged. The cost was matched by the quality and uniqueness of the experiences. Whether it was a fresh seafood meal, a locally guided glacier tour, or a cozy guesthouse in the countryside, everything was thoughtfully done.

Northern Lights: The Elusive Wonder

One thing we hoped to see but didn’t was the Northern Lights. Winter is supposed to be peak season, and we checked the aurora forecast obsessively. We even booked a guided tour one night, but the clouds never parted.

While it was disappointing, we knew nature doesn’t always cooperate. It gives us a perfect reason to return—because Iceland, even without the auroras, was already unforgettable.